Safety is a relative term, isn’t it? I feel safer walking at night in Chiang Mai than I do in most U.S. cities.
The only time I feel unsafe here is when I’m on my bicycle or on the back of a motorbike in traffic. Learning to drive on the left side of the road isn’t so bad, but Chiang Mai was built in the 13th century. It’s not your average grid city.
First I’m on the left. Now I’m on the right turning into left-hand traffic. Here’s a round-a-bout. Now I’m going the wrong way on a one-way street.
I went back to the bike shop to ask for a helmet, to which they cackled and replied, “You on bicycle. It no pro-BLEM.” Everything in Chiang Mai is “Mai pen rai,” which translates to, “no problem.”
“Yes, but It pro-BLEM foh MEE,” I explained sternly.
So, they gave me a pink 1940’s World War II style bomber helmet and sent me on my way.
My mother’s bracing gasp for air comes to mind as Vinnie and I bob and weave through traffic, lane splitting and zig-zagging our way up to the front of the pack.
While driving a motorbike requires a certain learned skill-set, much bigger balls are needed to ride on the back of one. Thrilling as it may be to have the fresh mountain air streaming through your hair, your body leaning into the curves of the road, there’s nothing keeping your fragile life and limbs protected other than centrifugal forces and the competency of your trusted driver.
I sing a little song to myself though that helps to calm the mind. It’s the Seven Dwarf’s theme song, “Hi ho, hi ho, it’s off to work we go,” and replace the words with, “Don’t die, don’t die, don’t die don’t die don’t die!”
It’s seemed to work so far.